superchiem's Toyota RV 5vz Swap

[89s rule]

Originally Posted by superchiem

The problem with the rv is it is only 1 ton rated. Although you can get the rear dually axle up to 2 tons. For our grand canyon trip we were averaging 13 mpg with the 3vz. On hills we were bogging down to 45 mph. This is with 4 people and tons of stuff. If you pack light I believe you can make it with 6 people. The key is to get all the weight off the rear axles.

You should check out this site.


http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/

Thanks for all the info. I have been on www.toyotamotorhome.org but havent registered yet. Im not sure if the space difference would be worthwhile vs. a domestic van based rig that gets ~ 10mpg. Biggest down side I can tell is the possibility to upgrade some of the smaller version Toyota's to 4wd or the like if that ever happened. But like I mentioned before many of those ideas end up being apip dream when the rubber hits the road as I think we all have grand plans, but once we have had a vehicle awhile other things seem to take priority, etc.

[MooseBit]

Any progress on this? I want to see a supercharged motorhome.

[SafetyDang]

its running but headers out... ULTRA LOUD!

[superchiem]

Finally back and ready to start messing with the rv again. The next big project is the exhaust, which I want to do myself. My brother and I argue if we were going to get a pipe or tube bender, but I have no idea. Thinking about getting some pre-bent mandrel bends and use a sawzaw to get the proper angle. I might have to buy a decent chop saw. Updates might be slow. Going to pick up a lot of over time.

Hopefully will wrap up the project this year and finish safetydangs 5-speed 4x4 swap.

You guys need to bust dang's balls to help me get the exhaust done because hes a better welder than I am. haha

Thank you for looking,

Navy

[superchiem]

UPDATE!

Went to B and M Mufflers in Garden Grove, CA and got my the rest of the exhaust done. I got to say they did everything the way I wanted it for $200. I was dreading doing the exhaust because I wanted it routed between the torsion bar and frame, under the cross member and over the drive shaft to the stock muffler. This also includes installation of the donors stock cats and o2 sensors.











I assume the supercharger is going to choke on that stock 3vz pipe after the 2 cats, but I'll chop that after I pass the smog referee.

Still some wiring to do. I need to get the ecu in the cab and wire the speedo, tach, shifter indicator, and ect. There is probably something else, but its getting much closer now!

Thanks for looking!

Navy

[superchiem]

Hey guys finally got a 90* valve, but I need to move the cable that controls it. The control for the valve is on the top and not at the bottom like the original 3vz's. I got this off a 94 camry.





I have to do a little brain storming before I pull the trigger.

Till next time!

Navy

[Wainiha]

What is that valve?

[superchiem]

When you move your air control to hot or cold. It open or closes this valve.

[superchiem]

Well I just cut some of the original heater hoses and made it work. I couldn't use the 90 degree water valve without major modification. I'll show pictures of the water valve later.

Now I have a new problem! I heat shrinked 1 wire that I meant to do later, which was B+ right before the park neutral switch. After heat shrinking I went to start it and it would crank, but won't fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a little.

Maf is in spec and has resistance. Didn't check the crank position sensor yet though. Fuel pump is running and there is fuel all way to the fuel rail. I don't have the oboII wires hooked up yet so not sure of cel. Might have to do that though. Any advice would be great.

I swapped these parts with the tacoma and they all work.

Crankshaft position sensor
Maf

Thank you,

Navy

[superchiem]

I hooked up the ob2 and guess what no codes! This is the only time I wish I had some codes to read. I've looked at everything and it seems like it might be the ecm. Nothing else controls the injectors besides the ecm. Inputs needed are crankshaft, but I have good resistance there.

Hopefully the ecm doesn't cost more than my swap.

Navy

[superchiem]

I talked to my auto instructor at school and he said to check the voltage before and after the injector and what the differences is. The injectors use an average of 3v, which he said is normal. During cranking the voltage is on and off showing that the injectors are pulsing.

Although I don't have to spend money on a ecm I still have a fuel problem.

I ordered an Actron fuel gauge off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

It came with an adapter that fits on our fuel rail, but to use it I need a 90 degree bend.

I went to true value and got some pipe fittings. I cut off the end of the adapter tapped it and threaded in the 90 degree pipe.

I test fitted it and gave it 2 turns and a last turn with very little effort to get the 90 degree fitting to point up and it broke. Thank God it didn't get jammed in the fuel line, but it broke like a paper clip. I didn't even get it anywhere close to tight.









I'm going to see if toyota as the adapter or order another one of these and try again.

[superchiem]

I order this from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250408476337...witem=&vxp=mtr



12mm banjo bolt to 1/8 npt thread. Take notes!

I work at toyota part time so I stopped by the parts department and found out that the SST 09268-45014 is over $200!

This is just a double banjo bolt and banjo fitting!

Anybody got any ideas for my starting issue?

[DreamMachine]

Sub-Freakin-Scribed!

[superchiem]

Well I finally got my adapter. I should have just save myself 12 bucks and made it myself, but oh well.

Here it is next to the broken Actron adapter:



I didn't tighten down the 90 degree elbow to much because I thought it was going to snap, but later on I did because it was leaking at that point. Remember to use plumber tape. It will save you the trouble of undoing everything the second time.



Put barbs on both ends:







I used a coat hanger to hang my gauge.



If you have a remote starter. I unplugged the relay and hooked it up to the battery.







Then crank away! I got around 45 psi, which is normal. Now I have no idea what my problem can be now haha.

[Yotaoffroad27]

Originally Posted by SafetyDang

its running but headers out... ULTRA LOUD!

Originally Posted by superchiem

Well I just cut some of the original heater hoses and made it work. I couldn't use the 90 degree water valve without major modification. I'll show pictures of the water valve later.

Now I have a new problem! I heat shrinked 1 wire that I meant to do later, which was B+ right before the park neutral switch. After heat shrinking I went to start it and it would crank, but won't fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a little.

Maf is in spec and has resistance. Didn't check the crank position sensor yet though. Fuel pump is running and there is fuel all way to the fuel rail. I don't have the oboII wires hooked up yet so not sure of cel. Might have to do that though. Any advice would be great.

I swapped these parts with the tacoma and they all work.

Crankshaft position sensor
Maf

Thank you,

Navy

So, It was running but now its not? Are you sure its getting spark?

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by Yotaoffroad27

So, It was running but now its not? Are you sure its getting spark?

Yes it was running and now its not. Yes, if I spray starter fluid into the intake it starts.

[superchiem]

Checked some source voltage going to the ECM:

BATT = 12.59v
+B = 12.18v
VC = 12.14v
IGSW= 12.20v
IGF = 5.02v

Also checked ECM grounds:

E01 ok
E02 ok
E03 ok
E04 ok
ME01 ok
E1 ok
E2 ok

Everything looks like its in spec so far.

Although I swapped a crankshaft positioning sensor the wire may have resistance and can throw off the computer (I think). My cheapy harbor freight DVOM is unreliable when it comes to resistance, so I am going to buy a nicer one.

Throw some ideas out folks! I need your help!

Thank you,

Navy

[DreamMachine]

Did you check your Muffler Bearing?

Here's the replacement part:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=48

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by DreamMachine

Did you check your Muffler Bearing?

That can't be it I just changed that. Although my head light fluid is a little low.

I just manually grounded the injector and it fired for a few seconds and died. I figure there might be some internal resistance in the ECM. There are only a few things left to check before I change the ECM now.

[superchiem]

She is running again . Now I can move forward and start doing the evap stuff.

The problem was a ground wire that was missed pinned. I didn't even remember removing when soldiering the starter wire. The ground wire was EOM E14 pin 10.

I found this because I was going to finally hard wire my OB2 and see if I get any other readings. OB2 takes pin 13 and 14 in the E14 connector. The EOM wire was in pin 13. I removed and plugged in the right spot and she fired right up!

Its a humbling experience, but I wouldn't have done it without yotatech.

Stay tuned for gas tank welding and evap nonsense.

Thank you for all helping!

Navy

[superchiem]

Most of the things I did on this swap was a first time for me. I didn't get the exhaust done because I just didn't have the skills or tools to do so. Same was done with the tank.

I had a buddy help me with it because he knew what he was doing.

We first attached a piece of wood to the bottom of what we were going to drill out with the hole saw. (pictures are of the aftermath)





Clean the paint off of the tank and new piece you just cut out. Use a hammer to get the smallest gap possible. Apply flux and heat up with a propane torch. Feed the soldier as soon as it melts on the metal.







I still need to do some stuff for the pressure sensor part, but I'll have before and after pictures of that at least.

[superchiem]

I cut the weird shape hole for the pressure sensor. It may not be perfect, but its a tight fit.



If you look at how the pressure sensor it is mounted to the 5vz fuel pump. You have to take the pump out to get to it. I didn't use the 5vz pump, but kept the old pump. So I had to have bolts come out to the tank so I can secure the pressure sensor.





I sealed the tank around where we soldiered.



Prime:



Then paint:



I'll throw one more coat today and rinse the tank out tomorrow and mount her up.

[Wainiha]

I have never seen soldering on a gas tank. Is that normal for a retro fit pump?

[4wd_mofo]

omg this write up is epic! Looking good!

[superchiem]

Thanks guys!

Got the tank ready to mount up. Had to plug a breather port that goes to the filler neck. We won't be using that anymore.







This goes to the smaller tube on the filler neck. We are still using the filler neck side. It will go to the charcoal canister.



I needed to add 2 lines to the filler neck because thats how the 2002 4runner was set up.

Visualize:





And Attack!:









I used 1/8th npt to a 90 degree 1/4" barb. The fuel hoses used on the tank are mostly 1/4".

Here is the top of the tank.



I forgot to mount the large black float. I had pulled to tank off and put the float in. I found out that it touches, but barely. I'm probably going to add a few washers or something to bring the tank down 1/8".

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by Wainiha

I have never seen soldering on a gas tank. Is that normal for a retro fit pump?

The boat mechanic that helped me has done it on many boats before. Also this was for a sensor not a pump, but you can probably do a pump as well.

[RickerRicker19]

I am in awe of this project. You're documenting all of the details too with great pics. Can't wait to see the end result and hear good news.

dodging work one post at a time

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by RickerRicker19

I am in awe of this project. You're documenting all of the details too with great pics. Can't wait to see the end result and hear good news.

dodging work one post at a time

Thanks for the comment. I like reading on people threads, but hate it when its hard to visualize what they are talking about. That is why I add lots of pictures.

I work mainly Saturday and Sunday for 48 hours as an emt and on call with Toyota Monday thru Friday. I'm not really dodging work, but work is dodging me .

[RickerRicker19]

Oh that's my signature for tapatalk. I'm dodging work LOL.

dodging work one post at a time

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by RickerRicker19

Oh that's my signature for tapatalk. I'm dodging work LOL.

dodging work one post at a time

oh haha