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Old 06-03-2012, 08:31 PM   #31
thehackman15
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Well I finally got my tires and wheels after a couple years of being indecisive haha. 35x12.50x15 MTR on Level 8 tracker wheels with 3.25 backspacing. no good pictures yet, just decided to throw one on to look how they compare to my old bfgs.





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Old 06-04-2012, 06:13 PM   #32
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[/url]
let the begin
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:11 PM   #33
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let the begin
but but but the paint! its still so pretty! since 35's are what all the cool kids have ill be doin the job again on my 4runner
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #34
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Started getting all the stuff together to put the tires on. Added a 1 inch roger brown body lift and ended up breaking the welds on one of the captive nuts so that set me back a little bit. Also built a new rear bumper for the body lift. Took an inch out of the rear fenders which I'm hoping will be enough since I added the lift. Next up is tubbing the front fenders and new front bumper.

Cut I made to get to the broken body bolt.


New nut welded to a piece of flat stock that got tack welded to the bed and will get clamped down as the bolt is tightened. Welded up the slit in the bottom of the bed and made it look like nothing ever happened. Should work fine I hope.



Here's the cut I made with the harbor freight body saw. I'm actually really impressed with saw and it cut through the sheet metal no problem.




Another question I have is what did you guys do to brace the fender up? I was thinking of getting some sheet metal, bending up some brackets then riveting them to the lower part of the fender so the rivet head will be covered by the door edge trim?
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:35 PM   #35
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My trucks cut up all around now, and nothing flaps in the wind. Everything is pretty rigid. With sheet metal anything you try to do to brace it will eventually just rip/tear/break/fracture and it'll do what you were trying to prevent anyway. It's just not strong enough to hold any structure to it without a break/lip in it.
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:10 AM   #36
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I just had the same issue i changed my tires from BFG to Cooper 315-75-16 and they rubbed. I called Fabtech and they said 3.75 is the limit for my 96 taco.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:00 PM   #37
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I just had the same issue i changed my tires from BFG to Cooper 315-75-16 and they rubbed. I called Fabtech and they said 3.75 is the limit for my 96 taco.
3.75 backspacing?
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:21 AM   #38
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I have 4.25 backspacing now and had to put a quarter inch spacer to make them work.
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:08 PM   #39
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Finally got around to finishing up the tubing and cutting to get the wheels on, now I just need a new washer bottle, move my add canister higher up in the wheel well and figure out what I want to do with the front bumper.



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Old 07-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #40
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Looks good how much did the wheels and tires run you and where did you purchase?
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:54 PM   #41
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time for some Xenon fender flairs
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:59 PM   #42
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Looks good how much did the wheels and tires run you and where did you purchase?
ended up being around 1500 bucks for 5 wheels and tires with certs
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:00 PM   #43
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time for some Xenon fender flairs
haha yea we will see how long I will get away with out them
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:59 PM   #44
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move my add canister higher up in the wheel well
Curious

What canister?
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #45
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Curious

What canister?
Theres a canister in the wheel well on the drivers side of the truck for the vacuum actuated diffs
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:44 PM   #46
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What did you guys do about your passenger wheel well where the intake tube is?
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:58 PM   #47
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What did you guys do about your passenger wheel well were the intake tube is?
What about it? I tubbed, I cut the fenders... and I wheel it.
Are you talking about how the intake tube is more exposed now?
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:28 PM   #48
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What about it? I tubbed, I cut the fenders... and I wheel it.
Are you talking about how the intake tube is more exposed now?
Yep
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:41 PM   #49
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Either dont go fast through deep water or get a snorkel/ make ur own
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Old 07-20-2012, 01:16 AM   #50
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Here's the cut I made with the harbor freight body saw. I'm actually really impressed with saw and it cut through the sheet metal no problem.
Do yourself a favor and take that saw apart. The blade holder is threaded onto the piston rod and it has a set screw holding it from loosening. That works, for a while. Then it strips the shit out of the threads and the saw is trash. If you clean it up and red locktite the shit out of it before it happens, they last a long time.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:20 AM   #51
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Do yourself a favor and take that saw apart. The blade holder is threaded onto the piston rod and it has a set screw holding it from loosening. That works, for a while. Then it strips the shit out of the threads and the saw is trash. If you clean it up and red locktite the shit out of it before it happens, they last a long time.
Cool thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to do that before I use it again.
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