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Old 11-30-2009, 11:37 AM   #1
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Default 4wd not engaging; broken connection off actuator

after searching around other threads, I'm still having trouble identifying this connection that broke-off the actuator (RED) after removing my DB lift. I have an '04 Tacoma V6 w/push-button 4WD ADD:



according to the front diff component sheet, it looks like it's a vacuum connection, and not an additional breather:



http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...dc4wd/comp.pdf

From what I'm understanding looking through other threads, however, 01-04 front diffs have electric actuator connections (BLUE) to engage in 4WD, not vacuum. Does it have both then?

Reason I'm asking other than the obvious--the truck isn't engaging in 4WD. I can hear the clank, however, no light and I can hear a hissing sound after pressing the button in the cab to engage 4WD. I had my brother push the button when I put my finger over the tube (GREEN), and got no suction. Later tomorrow I'm going to try to pinpoint where the hissing sound is coming from. At first I didn't suspect this broken connection being an issue since the 4WD worked for about a month before it stopped engaging. I assumed it was just a breather tube.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank-you!

Last edited by RSB; 11-30-2009 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 12-26-2009, 11:35 AM   #2
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Hissing sound is coming from the 4WD actuator near the transfer case, not the front diff. Now I'm fearing having to take my rig down to the dealership.

Is there anything else I can try? From what I'm understanding, taking apart the TC actuator is a real pain. I'm still not sure what I'd even be looking for.

Please help!
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Old 12-26-2009, 03:23 PM   #3
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my 01 diff is electronically activated, no vacuum. the only hose going to it is for a breather. i think yours should be the same. there should be a 6 pin electronic connector. the vacuum diffs do not have the electronics.
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:40 AM   #4
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but on the front diff component sheet and in the picture, it looks like there's both! (if we're just talking about the front diff actuator, not 4WD). There's a 6-pin electronic connector, vacuum tube, and a breather tube located directly on top of the diff.

But still, I think the problem appears to be with the 4WD actuator, because that's where the hissing sound originates. I've identified another breather tube and 6-pin electronic connector on it. If I were to test these wires, what would I be looking for? Also, doesn't the hissing sound suggest it's not electronic issue? But then again what sounds to me like a hissing sound could really be something mechanical--I don't know...

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my 01 diff is electronically activated, no vacuum. the only hose going to it is for a breather. i think yours should be the same. there should be a 6 pin electronic connector. the vacuum diffs do not have the electronics.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:11 PM   #5
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well, I haven't been getting as much feedback as I'd hoped for, but I expected that with the holidays & all. So, I took it down to the mechanic today. I couldn't wait! We'll see what happens...
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:45 AM   #6
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problem is w/the front actuator. It needs to be replaced
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:52 AM   #7
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Looks to me like you have the 6-pin electric actuator but I could be wrong.

Here's a pic for your reference:

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Old 12-29-2009, 10:38 PM   #8
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yep, that's what I've got. Looks like Toyota decided to bump-up the price for a new actuator from $330 to $900!!! Part #4140034013. Something about 'new & improved internal electronics'. I just went ahead and bought it for $250 shipped from Toyotapart.com
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:21 PM   #9
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Also posted on another thread for you guys -

Just replaced my 4x4 actuator and it fixed my problem.
Sounds like I had the same issue you guys are having.

Major bitch to get it out unless you're a rubix cube wizard - even so I suggest at least loosening the steering rack and prying it back to get the actuator out.

NOTE: You WILL drain the differential fluid during this project - so plan to replace it.

Another note for anyone new to some of this stuff. The actuator near the transfer case is NOT the actuator.
The 4x4 actuator is located on the back side of the front differential. I learned this by first freeking out and thinking the Toyota guys sold me the wrong part
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:14 PM   #10
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thanks for the update!!
wow. glad to hear it solved the problem! You think it might be worth having someone else install it?! Very rarely do I ever ask this question! Any special tools needed? good to know about the fluids. If I end up having a mechanic do the job, that'll be my primary concern. I've heard too many stories about mechanics forgetting to refill the oil after pulling the plug!

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Originally Posted by MUD View Post
Also posted on another thread for you guys -

Just replaced my 4x4 actuator and it fixed my problem.
Sounds like I had the same issue you guys are having.

Major bitch to get it out unless you're a rubix cube wizard - even so I suggest at least loosening the steering rack and prying it back to get the actuator out.

NOTE: You WILL drain the differential fluid during this project - so plan to replace it.

Another note for anyone new to some of this stuff. The actuator near the transfer case is NOT the actuator.
The 4x4 actuator is located on the back side of the front differential. I learned this by first freeking out and thinking the Toyota guys sold me the wrong part
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:08 AM   #11
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finally found time to get it done! My friend Chris and I had it off in under 15 min after draining the fluids. We managed to do it without loosening the steering rack either! Here's what it looked like inside once we got it open...







yuck! I have absolutely no idea how the mud got inside. Couldn't determine the extent of the damage it caused. After installing the new actuator, I put a thin layer of silicone around all the seams and gasket material to hopefully prevent mud from getting back in again in the future.

this thing looks really cool. I wish I knew how it worked! I guess I could have tried to clean it up and put it back in, but the new one was already there and we really didn't want to risk having to drain & refill the fluids all over again to see if a new one was really actually needed. So, we filled it back up, fired-up the truck, pressed the ADD button, and it worked!!! The driveshaft locked in place and the truck came back to life again immediately.

thank-you again for all your help! No doubt you've saved from needing a mechanic to get this installed.
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:37 AM   #12
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Awesome! Glad you got it going again man.

I just threw my old one away today - but never tore it apart to see what was inside.
Thanks for the photos! It's nice to see the guts of some of that stuff.

All I can say is that it's relatively inexpensive fix to what I imagined to be a MAJOR problem!
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:30 PM   #13
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certainly was! Thanks again for the tips man. You bet!! I'd love to know how the thing works. But whatever the case, a new one solved the problem!!

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Awesome! Glad you got it going again man.

I just threw my old one away today - but never tore it apart to see what was inside.
Thanks for the photos! It's nice to see the guts of some of that stuff.

All I can say is that it's relatively inexpensive fix to what I imagined to be a MAJOR problem!
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:20 PM   #14
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I need to replace mine but I know a guy who rebuilds all kinds of electric motors and actuators I called him and he said to bring it too him and he would look at it. So ill let you guys know how it goes and if he can rebuild them Ill post his contact info up for future reference.

btw if anyone has an old one laying around that doesn't work I would love to have it for free/very cheap
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:30 PM   #15
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looks to me like the little round motor spins the worm gear that engages in the large round gear and I cant see what goes on behind it but it be it spins something in behind it
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:57 PM   #16
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fantastic! Yes, please let us know! Unfortunately, I threw mine away

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I need to replace mine but I know a guy who rebuilds all kinds of electric motors and actuators I called him and he said to bring it too him and he would look at it. So ill let you guys know how it goes and if he can rebuild them Ill post his contact info up for future reference.

btw if anyone has an old one laying around that doesn't work I would love to have it for free/very cheap
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