Dell's M100 Trailer

[natetru]

im looking at purchasing a m101... i drive an 88 4runner with 3.0....question is will i be able to tow it? i would think so but i am told it would be to heavy.... your opinion? thanks

[TacoDell]

I wouldn't choose/buy an M101...
that's like a 3/4 ton or something
and they're heavy... much to big IMO for any tight trail work/serious off road duty
You could prolly pull 'er around the street/fire roads and like
But it's gonna be cumbersome with most anything 'cept V8 powered junk


unless you meant the M101CDN (canadian) ?

[natetru]

thanks

[natetru]

also, i wasnt planning on trailing the trailer...more along the lines of a camping trailer...mayb i will build one loosely on the design of the m101 and size it down to fit my truck...

[TacoDell]

well... if yer never going to see anything but flat road...
you could get by...

there may be times tho'... when yer hating even that

With my 5VZE junk churning 4.88's...
things are still underpowered for maintaining speed on long uphill grades that climb sharply in altitude.
But then... I'm trying to keep the rpm's down...
so... I'm rocking fifth gear
'cause fourth gear brings the R's to a noisy ruckus

Altitude is an enemy of horsepower, for any NA engine
tho' proper gearing takes a little pain outta that.

btw... bet my M100 trailer weighs less, when fully loaded,
then that M101 anchor does empty

a heavier trailer... or even a light trailer with a heavy load...
will likely bring the suck for it's hauler, on occasion...
guess it's just something that comes with the territory
sometimes... you feel it was worth the trouble...
other times... you'll wish you could ditch it !

I had an '89 with the 3.slow...
it had stock gears... and IMO... it could barely pull it's own.
...add an overweight anchor to the mix... !? U do the math

well... I guess.. there are some things...
ya just gotta learn for yourself

Oh and btw... if you think it's somewhat heavy now...
wait until you load all yer junk on it too ! ?

IMHO... I'd fore go that trailer and look for something more manageable
to drag behind that little truck.
and leave that big gun for the likes of 3/4 to 1 ton junk,
from one of 'da big 3

[natetru]

thanks for your input..i believe i will look for a toyota rear axle and build a smaller(and lighter) trailer around it.

[TacoDell]

scratch builds are the smartest move...
because you end up with exactly what you put into it
so you get the best end results.

but if that's a hassle...
then starting with an 1/4 ton military trailer
and that will make things easier.

start shopping for the likes of an: MBT, M100, M416 or an M101CDN

Avoid the WWII era trailers... as those have significant historical value...
and it should be a crime to butcher those up further.
Look to purchase an post war trailer if you can.

^ the M416 would (IMO) be the preferred choice...
as it is slightly larger in it's inside dimensions.
plus historically... it has less value to a collector.
so... it may be cheaper to purchase.

I'll wish U good hunting

[skidooman]

I have been mezmarized for the last 5 hours or so since I stumbled across this thread. You and this trailer are my hero, this thing is awesome. I am going to look at an M100(Korean era I think) tomorrow. I'm hoping it's in semi decent shape. The guy that has it actually has two, and is a co-worker, so I'm hoping he doesnt try to take me to the cleaners. I am definitely going to be referring to this thread all the time for my build.

[TacoDell]

^ thanks for taking a look at muh M100 build
and for your appreciation of that and my efforts
didn't realize it might take 5 hours to read thru. LoL



I like my M100 purdy much...
but if I had opportunity to pick up a M416
I'd have rather had one of those to get more serious with...

other things that make the M416 a better choice
as an off road/expo trailer...

1. "C" channeled frame = stronger

2. The Tub's inner dimensions are slightly more spacious

3. ^ slightly higher load capacity as well

4. Think the axle is slightly wider and the trailers tires would track better
( ^ w/Tacoma axle width)

5. comes with dual height drawbar casting for lunette mounting options


but hey... if U find M100's...

I wouldn't pass up on that opportunity...
but I guess I get bothered some
when folk purchase the rarer war era trailers
and have little consideration of their historical rarity.

M100's may have somewhat less historical significance
but it's getting rare as hell to find one that is complete,
correct and in good condition.

anywho... wish you good fortune in your purchase/search
be sure to post pics when ya get 'er !

[skidooman]

If my stinking co-workers wouldnt have been trying to make me work it wouldnt have taken so long... I looked at this one, it doesnt have a build date on the data tag, but has a s/n and the model, it is an M100. Its in a little worse shape than yours was originally. The original floor was butchered, and a new floor welded in, which was done pretty poorly. Its is going to definitely need attention. The ring of the lunet has been cut off and a 2" ball has been welded onto the rod, again done pretty poorly. I am going to go your route and extend the hitch and put one of those max couplers on it, so thats not a big deal. From what i could see of the frame it looks to be in pretty good shape, I couldnt see any cracks where the shocks mount, but with the tires and tub on its hard to see right there. The tub rails are pretty straight, and the sides of the tub are in decent shape. It also doesnt have a title, but the guy said he would get it titled before I get it. Hes asking $750. It might be a little high, but with what I've been finding online, I will have to drive a couple hours to even look at a different one, and those started at 800. Even if they are in better shape by the time I add in fuel, and time, it probably wouldnt be worth it. Now the real work will begin. Wish me luck, because I am going to need it.

[TacoDell]

Originally Posted by skidooman

and those started at 800. Even if they are in better shape by the time I add in fuel, and time, it probably wouldnt be worth it. Now the real work will begin. Wish me luck, because I am going to need it.

I'm no professional restorer...
but in the learning experience of my project...
I now have a more profound respect for metal work.

IMO... the extra money spent now (initial purchase)
is well worth the extra coin...

reason being...

your labor is time consuming and with little fiscal return

[TacoDell]

I'm still not done with this build...

But just a week or so back... was gutted and tagged,
with a new zipper from muh penis to muh sternum...
would seem that I had an Pancreatic Aneurysm,
and nearly bled out... or in (as what really occurs)
lost 6 pints in that fun
(was reassembled just in time for muh 50th year on this planet...
and as well the upcoming SuperBowl)

Nice to see that some folk have still been perusing muh build
and I'm hoping muh health will return back to some semblance of normalcy,
but I realize this will take some time to heal.

guess I should be grateful to still be among the living

but damn... all this work done... and now I can't use it

well... guess I've got time to think about direction...
or just selling out...

cheers to all whom 'ave read along and found any form of value or entertainment to this point

tho' I had no part in muh own re-construction...
ya want pics of muh new belly zipper ?

btw... post surgery... everything smells and tastes like shit
sad news to me... if it lingers forever

fuk it... 'cause a picture makes it real...



yeah it fuking hurts

[faithoffroad]

Damn dude, that sucks.

[Hanz]

Holy Crap!!!

Glad you're doing OK. Take your time and heal well.

[Pikeman]

Dell, sorry to hear about your health but glad that you are lucky and it was detected in time. I think this is one of those times the phrase " Now that is going to leave a mark" is appropriate. I wish you well and to have a speedy recovery so I can see you out on the trail again.

[Sleepy]

Dell, you get well soon so that they can see you on the trail, you can not turn into a web wheeler! I know that at our age things take longer to get back to "normal" so take your time and recoup only once.

[skidooman]

Holy crap, glad to see you made it out on the right side of the dirt. I finally picked my project up. Its in pretty rough shape, but should be fun. I have been looking at this thread constantly for ideas. I think this is by far the best trailer build I have seen. Well done.

[TacoDell]

^ hey there... thanks for saying.
It always feels good when someone can appreciate my effort
and hopefully gain something positive from my work.

Yer trailer looks good...
and I can only hope that your efforts will reward you with great results.

Please be sure to start a build thread that I can follow.
I really look forward in seeing what others do to restore
and bring these old military trailers back to their full glory and use.

Is this an M100 or M416 ?
The wheels look like M416 wheels...
or maybe something off a MUTT

I see you have data tags... what do they read ?

[skidooman]

The tag says its an M100. It has a s/n number too, but no build date. I think I am going to need to get different wheels, or spacers. The inside of both tires have been rubbing on the trailer and are pretty tore up. Either that or once I get the tires off, and actually get a chance to work on the thing... I might be able to fix up the body so they wont rub, it looks like there might be some welds in there that were never smothed up. I would like to keep the tires as close to the body as I can to stay under the fenders. The tub is welded onto the frame so I think I am going to cut it off so I can address any concerns the frame may have. To reattach it I will build little tabs like you've got. I found on another forum that all the m100 tubs were welded to the frame. Did it look like yours had been cut off when you got it?

[TacoDell]

Originally Posted by skidooman

The tag says its an M100. It has a s/n number too, but no build date. I think I am going to need to get different wheels, or spacers. The inside of both tires have been rubbing on the trailer and are pretty tore up. Either that or once I get the tires off, and actually get a chance to work on the thing... I might be able to fix up the body so they wont rub, it looks like there might be some welds in there that were never smothed up. I would like to keep the tires as close to the body as I can to stay under the fenders. The tub is welded onto the frame so I think I am going to cut it off so I can address any concerns the frame may have. To reattach it I will build little tabs like you've got. I found on another forum that all the m100 tubs were welded to the frame. Did it look like yours had been cut off when you got it?

Remember the axle and tires will push the wheels even closer to the tub
when one side is individually compressed upwards to it's bumps...
That is likely to put the tire/wheel into the side of the tub even more so...
I'd probably shit can those wheels for the correct offset
Think the original wheel has a 3.75" BS'ing

Yes... the original build on all of the war and post war wagon tubs
were welded to the frame...
I chose not to re-weld... because I have an interest for easier removal
for my future needs... hence using tabs w/bolts instead.
Tho' not original... it works for me...

If you use tabs and bolts... remember to make a backing plate that is
more substantial then just simple washers...
That might minimize the potential of stressing the frame where the bolts go thru.
These old frames can crack fairly easy when flexed in an off road environment.

The frames are really light duty... and the tubs are welded to insure better structural integrity between the tub and the frame...
Think of the tub/frame design as more similar to that of a Uni-body design.

Later M416 trailers have a "C" channel frame...
and bolting to those... is substantially stronger...
and that is why I modified my frame and converted it
to more resemble the M416 frame's "C" channel.

Tho' not original... it could easily removed...
if one were wanting to return the trailer back to it's original configuration.

[SurfingDrunk]

dell, when you bust a gut, can i have your trailer? i'll rally to get you a black truck!
if i had the skillz, i'd TRY to build one!

[TacoDell]

I already busted muh gut

you can buy this one for $ 5000

I might give you a discount... if'n you pony up

[TacoDell]

PTI = Permanent Trailer Identification

So... this is a CA/DMV fee... charged for maintaining
a trailer on its database ? (muh trailer has lifetime plates)

Says renewal is every 5 years...
but I haven't owned it 5 years... hmmm

For anyone that knows...
Is the 5 year rotation based on the new owners purchase date...
or, I'm guessing, based on the original date that registration
was first issued ?

meh... it's not much to cry about
wuz just wondering

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by TacoDell

PTI = Permanent Trailer Identification

So... this is a CA/DMV fee... charged for maintaining
a trailer on its database ? (muh trailer has lifetime plates)

Says renewal is every 5 years...
but I haven't owned it 5 years... hmmm

For anyone that knows...
Is the 5 year rotation based on the new owners purchase date...
or, I'm guessing, based on the original date that registration
was first issued ?

meh... it's not much to cry about
wuz just wondering

It took 8 years for them to get their $10 from me on my car hauler... must have had 3 years left on prior owner, and the transfer fee added 5 years.. I was bothered by it and was gonna check into it when I finally got the renewal.. My plate is all but destroyed, so I'm gonna have to get that replaced this year... $18

[TacoDell]

yeah... it's only $ 10. sooo I'm not crying
just wanted to figure out
if this Ca./DMV was being greedy or premature.
$ 10. every 5 years I will live with.

good gawd... hope no crack head steals muh plate

[TacoDell]

Has been awhile since I've done much of anything...

Tho' I'm recovering fairly quick...
so at least I can start making attempt at little things.

Sooo... finally got at all muh 'flector bezels in order
and mounted up to the M100

just thought I'd show how that looks...





also reinforced (W/ backing plates) inside the frame...
to better secure the tail light housing mount(s)
The frame was getting boogered up by the original bracket mount,
moving around even when the bolts were tight

Now... it don't move around at all...
and should save the frame from fatigue there.



Needed to 180* the tail light buckets
so had to mod... my already modified housing brackets to accommodate for the wiring...



That's all for now...



=======================

* I also had to fab two new holes in my seat(s) slider rails...
to allow for engagement of the stays... so's I could get that to slide back another notch (1")...

^ because I have Scion seats in muh junk

[TacoDell]

welp... all I can say is... these are really nice if the receiver and insert aren't of exact tolerances.
And even if they are... they'll likely loosen up some over time and use.
So I really recommend using the anti rattle pin locks.

I mounted two of these...

One for the receiver side on the truck...
It was fairly straight forward... so I'm skipping the details of that one.
Tho' I gotta blurry pictar of that... (my camera sucks for focusing close in the dark)



Now with the trailer's tongue and Max C... different story...
and inserting the "U" bracket into the Max Coupler, it will require a little modification to fit.

* there are different types of anti rattle pins on the market...
some don't have this "U" plate design... but I like it...
and it makes it easier to retrieve/remove then some of the other designs.

Trimax anti rattle lock pin... blurry again



Pin assembly parts...



Really simple...

Just had to cut both "U" bracket end plates off, right at the backside of the nut, leaving the welded tab in place.
I also had to cut all four edges of the plates... down about 1/8"
There's a slight angle to each plate edge.. so that gets cut or ground flat.
I have no picture prior to the cuts but you'll know if/when you see it.



What the Trimax pin threads into when installed




Working to install my Max C with this... I found a suprise...
I found that the Max Coupler's ddfoam grease seal inside the MC had disappeared... I don't know how



^ take notice to the shape of the interior walls of the MC

Making a replacement grease seal...

Started with a leaf spring spacer disc...
and trimmed that as close as I could to fit the interior walls of the MC
turned out alright and fit fairly snug to the inner walls.



had to trim the nub down about half...
to be sure it would clear the hitch pin when that's inserted
The hitch pin will actually hold the new seal in place
so trimming the nub down and how much is your call.



Seal inserted into the MC...



^ btw... I had already installed this prior and took things apart for the pics.
so the grease you see around the seal... was forced out by using my grease gun with a pump too many.
When I reinstall it... I can feel where I need to stop filling
so... it likely won't have this grease showing or pushed past the seal.
The seal really is purdy snug... way better then the original crap.

I think that about covers it.

[No Burrito Taco]

Skidooman. The rims are wrong. The rim in the picture is from a M151. You need a early rim from a M38A1. Back space is wrong that is why the tire is hitting. That rim should clear a M416 trailer your trailer is a M100. Ford bolt pattern on the rim so no big deal finding the right rim. And the best part about your trailer is they are waterproof if the last guy did not drill to many holes. Fill with water add a heater and instant hot tub.

[No Burrito Taco]

Dell. With some Bondo and flesh color paint you will be as good as new.

[TacoDell]

Originally Posted by No Burrito Taco

Dell. With some Bondo and flesh color paint you will be as good as new.

R U bringing homo(ism) to muh build thread ?

Here... this should help with yer infatuation...







U can find your luv at Home Depot or Lowes