superchiem's Toyota RV 5vz Swap

[superchiem]

I thought I would post my swap here as well as yotatech. Seems like there is mix of good knowledge from both sites.

Here is my 1991 Toyota Itasca:



Here is the donor:



I wanted a newer engine with lower miles so I went with an 02 2wd 4runner. I'm still up in the air about using the newer dash harness and splicing in the accessories. I think that would take care of my main concern, which is having the motor running. Then I can worry about the AC, lights, signals, and such later.


Pulling the motor:


I first pulled the tranny and the next day pulled the motor. Pulling the motor was fairly easy. I just wrapped chains around each motor mount and started pumping. I would give it a couple pumps and check for snags. I eventually needed my brothers help to keep it from smashing into things.




Tune up and routine maintenance:


I changed the timing belt and water pump, while the motor was out. Breaking the crankshaft bolt loose was the most timing consuming during maintenance work. I had to make my own pulley holder and chain it to the stand. It took about 240 ft-lbs to finally break it loose.




Cooling, heating and air condition systems:


Looks like I'm going to be using the old A/C pump. It seems to have the best success. That way I can keep it intact.


Fuel and exhaust systems:


I already rotated the high pressure fuel line. Using existing holes I mounted the return line. I bought 2 feet of fuel line and also extended the return line.







Tomorrow I hope I can pull the oil pan and drill a new dip stick hole. Any ideas on drill bit size? I've read 3/8", but seems there's conflicting info out there.

I would also like to modify the alternator bracket. Anybody know how much I need to cut off and reweld?

The toyota dealer near my house doesn't have the union. So I'm going to hold off on the drilling until the 3vz is out. That way I can weld up a drill guide just like ORS'.

Also there is no point in cutting the alternator bracket with out knowing how much I need to cut anyways. So that will have to wait.

Today I pulled the 3.0 radiator, fan, fan clutch, intake box, intake tube, alternator and battery.

Engine Electrical System:

I needed to do something today so I thought I would get the alternator ready for the swap. Instead of splicing in a new connector I just swap voltage regulators.

Here is the 60 amp 3vze alt (left) and 80 amp 5vze alt (right)





They have the same type of pulley. The 3vze's is a little bigger.



Unbolt 3 bolts on the back the alternator holding the case.



Remove the 5 screws holding the voltage regulator.







The case has some differences. So you can't just swap alternator cases.





Had to grind out the newer case that way the connector from the 3vze can fit into the alternator connector.





Installed and ready for the swap. I also installed the 3vze coolant outlet.



Pulling the motor part 2:

What a day! I asked my future brother in laws to come over and help me pull the tranny out.

We couldn't get the tranny out because the RV doesn't have a removal tranny crossmember. The member is welded in place. So I had to lift the 3vze up alittle and the tranny came right out with all the atf from the torque converter. So since I already unbolted the motor mounts we went to town and decided to pull the whole engine.



It was rough trying to keep the a/c lines intact, but we did it. I wanted to keep the vacuum lines intact for the future buyers, but it wasn't going to happen.

Looks like I have to swap pans, drill the dip stick hole, swap motor mounts, notch the motor mounts, clean up the engine bay, wire wheel rust, paint rusty areas, relocate the battery and then I should be ready to put the 5vze in there. :wrench:

Drilling the block part 1:

I decided to make a drill guide because I am cursed. They might as well change murphy's law to chiem's law it seems like sometimes. So I didn't want to take a chance.

I bought a tube with an I.D. of 3/8 and cut about 1 inch off the 48 inch piece. Trust me I looked and that was the shortest I could find it.

First I hammered the old union out of the 3vz:





Here is the pipe I cut with the U size bit inside of it:



I wanted to build it like ORS, but didn't have large enough scrap metal. So I just used what I could find.





Here it is tacked up:



Had to grind a some off when I test fitted onto the 5vz:



Did you guys remove the exhaust manifold to drill this thing?

Modifying the 5vz Baffle:

I tried to measure up the 3vz holes with the 5vz holes. Using the ribs, but ended up about 2 jigsaw blades off. Kind of frustrating, but it went on when I tried installing the pickup tube with baffle at the same time. I may try to fix it tomorrow morning, but we'll see how the day unfolds.





Well didn't have much time, but was able to cut a little more out of the baffle plate and installed the baffle and oil sump.


There's also a small tab in front of the baffle. This tab needs to be bent up about 90 degrees and the oil pan should fit perfect.



Still need to get a right angle drill adapter to drill into the block. Don't want to dish out that cash though.

Also if you guys were wondering if radio flyer can take the weight of a 3vz. Well it can! :shocked:



Today went pretty smooth. I had a few hours to spare and finally drilled a hole into the block.

Drilling the dip stick hole Part 2:

I first had to remove the exhaust manifold. Then had to remove the top middle stud. You can use a 8mm socket wrench to get it out I think.



I dug around in my parents garage and remember we had a air powered drill.



The drill fit perfect with a little room to spare.



I used a 3/8 drill to start a hole then switched to the U size bit. That way I had the exact center that I wanted.



Then went all the way with the U size bit.



Took the union out of the fridge and tapped it in using a socket.





Also tapped and used a allen screw and a o-ring to plug the old dipstick hole.



It sticks out a little bit, but the pan clears.



Just need to mount the new dipstick.




Notching the passenger side motor mount:

Made some marks with some white out and went to town with grinder.

[tacosmasher]

Nice job so far, I say you put some larger tires on it and turn it into a toyota earth roamer!

[Greg_Canada]

Nice, you know ORS is back in business building harnesses right?

[SouthGeorgiaRunner]

Originally Posted by Greg_Canada

Nice, you know ORS is back in business building harnesses right?

whats the price?

[SafetyDang]

Originally Posted by tacosmasher

Nice job so far, I say you put some larger tires on it and turn it into a toyota earth roamer!

We wanted to convert it to 4x4 one day but My truck is first! We were going to use my 5 speed transmission for it but opted not to. I'm thinking a Locker would be nice.

[Yotaoffroad27]

Very nice work!

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by tacosmasher

Nice job so far, I say you put some larger tires on it and turn it into a toyota earth roamer!

The tires probably have to stay the same size due to rear fenders, but was thinking of long travel for the front. Not sure what the difference in 1 ton 2wd and regular 2wd pick up suspension is though.

Originally Posted by Greg_Canada

Nice, you know ORS is back in business building harnesses right?

I heard you can email Mike at ORS directly, but I think I'm going to tackle this wiring myself.

Originally Posted by Yotaoffroad27

Very nice work!

Thank you!

Navy

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by SafetyDang

We wanted to convert it to 4x4 one day but My truck is first! We were going to use my 5 speed transmission for it but opted not to. I'm thinking a Locker would be nice.

Finish your swap already lazy....

[RickerRicker19]

Nice work! Love the use of the flyer wagon! :P

[superchiem]

Very small update today. I was able to scrape all the old gasket material off the 3vze oil pan and I got to say this is my least favorite thing to do so for during the entire swap.

Here it is mounted w/ new silicone:



After that I tried to drill out the tac welds holding the 4runner battery tray and was unsuccessful. I'll have to try again next time.



The motor is pretty much ready to go. I still need to clear out the engine bay a little. I also need to remove the speedo cable that comes from the tranny through the firewall to the gauges. Also need to order a new firewall protector. Anybody know the part number?

Thank you,

Navy

[Wainiha]

I like this. Something new. There is always something to learn.

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by Wainiha

I like this. Something new. There is always something to learn.

Yeah I'm learning as I go!

Good size update today.

The other day I wired wheel some rust that I saw in the engine bay. I then primed and painted it.





I went ahead a pulled a part some of the dash to get to the combometer. I unplugged the speedo cable from the back of the combometer. I found that you either had to cut the speedo cable or some how take it a part. I just used a lighter to heat up the end and the stopper came out. Now the speedo cable can fit through the hole of the firewall.





I then decided to install the tranny today.

Here they are side by side (5vz 2wd auto on top and 3vz 2wd auto on bottom):





I dragged the tranny under the truck and used ratchet straps to lift it up until I was able to get a jack under it.







The newer and older tranny mount are interchangeable. The older brace and crossmember have to be used.



Still have the urge to long travel this thing, but not sure if the 1 ton suspension is different.







Since the tire was off I thought I would see what it would look like. :lol:

The rim is not bolted it is just sitting beside it because the lug pattern is different from my 6 lug taco.

[Wainiha]

Lets see pics after you long travel it and the first jump.

[RickerRicker19]

It'll be hell putting all those 5 point harnesses in for the people in the back

[superchiem]

I had somewhat of a productive day today.

Was gearing up to install the torque converter. First I poured some ATF into the converter.



Then I installed it into the transmission. I had to wiggle it back and forth until it fell into place. You should not use a hammer to install these.



Also was able to torque down my crankshaft pulley to 217 ft/lbs. I used a grade 8 bolt to hold the chain in place on the stand.





I ground down the A/C bracket where it used to sandwich the motor mount.



Now it sits flush as it should.



After that the motor was ready to be dropped in.



I was working alone so I needed a way to control it as I was lowering it. So I hooked a tie down strap to one side of the engine.



Heres the motor finally sitting on the motor mounts. Only problem is the holes don't match on the driver side. Its about 1/4" off from lining up. I'm going to lift it again and see if I can get closer sometime next week I hope.

[jeetS]

nice write up

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by jeetS

nice write up

Thanks!

Things are moving along. Finally got the engine to sit into the motor mounts. I had to use the hoist and lift the engine and shake it a few times and lower it multiple times.

I posted that the 4runner tranny mount works on the tranny crossmember bracket, which it does, but doesn't work when then engine is in. You have to use the old one. Not sure if its because the rv is a 1 ton, but its much beefier anyways.





Had to bend some brake lines out of the way to get the down pipe in, but the frame is still in the way. Going to have to weld a jig up so I know how far to bend the down pipe. It looks like it needs to be bent 2 inches to the driver side. Hopefully lots of heat and a pry bar will do the trick.





I was thinking of buying a tube bender and learn how to do the exhaust myself or pay somebody to do it.

What do you guys think?

Also still pulling parts off the donor. Does anybody know how to unclip this? It hold the engine bay ac hose line to the ac condenser I think.



Thank you,

Navy

[Greg_Canada]

Most people fab up a crossover to go down the driver's side. it's very tight on the passenger side.
Buying a tube bender big enough for 2.5" pipe just to do some exhaust isn't worth it... buy some mandrel bends and some straight pipe and weld it all together.

[SafetyDang]

Originally Posted by Greg_Canada

Most people fab up a crossover to go down the driver's side. it's very tight on the passenger side.
Buying a tube bender big enough for 2.5" pipe just to do some exhaust isn't worth it... buy some mandrel bends and some straight pipe and weld it all together.

We live in Cali, so it must drop down on the passenger side first.

Everything must be factory or have a part number that can match up for the 4runner (Dot Approved) all the way down to the first cat.

[superchiem]

Everything must be factory or have a part number that can match up for the 4runner (Dot Approved) all the way down to the first cat.

They let some small modifications slide (such as the one i'm going to do), but it should be all the same up to the second cat.

[RickerRicker19]

Originally Posted by SafetyDang

We live in Cali, so it must drop down on the passenger side first.

Everything must be factory or have a part number that can match up for the 4runner (Dot Approved) all the way down to the first cat.

This is why I am ever so thankful that while I live in Cali I have tags for Kentucky. Cali is retarded. You pay out the ass in taxes and then they turn around and screw you over. I paid for tags over 2 months ago and just got them the other day. Not only that I paid 2% more than Kentucky which is why as soon as California gets up off their ass and sends the title in paper form I am moving the tags to KY. They don't care about engine swaps and they sure can get tags done in less than 10 min....provided there isn't a line.

Sorry I am off the soapbox. The build still looks good man!

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by RickerRicker19

This is why I am ever so thankful that while I live in Cali I have tags for Kentucky. Cali is retarded. You pay out the ass in taxes and then they turn around and screw you over. I paid for tags over 2 months ago and just got them the other day. Not only that I paid 2% more than Kentucky which is why as soon as California gets up off their ass and sends the title in paper form I am moving the tags to KY. They don't care about engine swaps and they sure can get tags done in less than 10 min....provided there isn't a line.

Sorry I am off the soapbox. The build still looks good man!

Lol I hear you on that. Thanks trying to chug along here.

I got some stuff done this week.

First I cut behind the passenger-side exhaust manifold flange. Then cut the cross over. We tried rotating it toward the transmission and welding it in place, but we were having to much trouble with the metal.





We ended up shoving a pipe in the cross over coming from the driver side and bending it up to match the height of the passenger side.

So I marked it with white out and tacked welded it from the inside. We still had trouble welding it so I took it to an exhaust shop and guess what! They said the cross over is stainless steel. Thats why we were having so much trouble.









The transmission is bolted in. Driveshaft is installed and fits perfectly. Still I have a lot of work, but I think finishing the cross-over was the biggest hurdle thus far.

[RickerRicker19]

Man I feel your pain on the crossover. I decided to do my own exhaust piping on my 4runner. That axle is the biggest pita to run up and over. Your crossover looks better than the bends I did though.

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[Greg_Canada]

You should put a flex pipe in the crossover, if not it will crack.

[SafetyDang]

Originally Posted by Greg_Canada

You should put a flex pipe in the crossover, if not it will crack.

Stock one has a flex pipe already.

[superchiem]

Originally Posted by SafetyDang

Stock one has a flex pipe already.

No it doesn't. The 3vze had the stock flex pipe. I thought about it, but I think I'll just wait till it cracks again and try a second header install .

[superchiem]

Got back to working on the RV again.

I needed a shorter Alternator bracket. So I cut it and re-welded it. I also used a shorter belt:

Napa micro-v belt # 25-040405



From the adjustment bracket notch to the first bend of the bracket should measure around 2".





The adjustment bolt was too long so I cut it where the bracket starts bending.





Although I shorten the bracket I can only fit an open end wrench between the bracket and steering box. Probably could have shorten about 1/4" and still have plenty of adjustment, but I don't want to do it again.

[superchiem]

Took a giant step back a week ago. I needed to drill and tap the threads for the column shifter bracket because I didn't swap bell housings. I snapped a bolt in there then snapped the extractor in there. So I ended up pulling the drive shaft, tranny mount, and tranny fluid lines. Then swapped bell housings.

5vz bell housing on the left. 3vz on the right.



I drilled out the hole for the starter on the 3vz bell housing because it is threaded. I wanted to use the 5vz starter just because its newer.

[superchiem]

Small update

Just installed the battery tray. I had help from my dad, but he has a rush rush personality, therefore it didn't come out as clean as I want it. Oh well the battery and paint will cover the ugliness.

If you use the battery tray from the 4runner. You have to make it sit lower other wise the battery is pretty close to the hood when you close it.

[RickerRicker19]

If it ain't broke.... lol. It looks pretty good imo. Seems like you've almost got everything sorted.

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