UCA install

[Doss]

Anybody in Nor Cal know a good shop who would install UCAs on my Tacoma? I'm getting lazy these days and don't want to install them myself unless I have to.

I would apprechiate any leads. Thanks.

Josh

[SP Jon M3]

Originally Posted by Doss

Anybody in Nor Cal know a good shop who would install UCAs on my Tacoma? I'm getting lazy these days and don't want to install them myself unless I have to.

I would apprechiate any leads. Thanks.

Josh

I don't know of any shop, but if you have any mechanical knowledge I'd put em in yourslef. You are gonna pay quite a bit for someone else to install them. It only takes about 30 min a side to install. Not that hard at all.

[amishclark]

wow...i can't wait to get to the point where i can ask something like this...maybe i should get off my ass and, like, work or something...

[Doss]

Yeah Jon is right I should probably just do the work myself and save some $. Thanks by the way for all the info and pics too.

One thing I am still concerned about though is once the front of the truck is off the ground and I pop off the stock upper control arm wont the coil over be free to decompress to full length.

I which case how do you compress the coil over back down so that the new UCA will reach the rest of the assemply?

[tacoma87]

Once you lift the truck with a jack the coil will extend to maximum length so it should be all free. unbolt the top three bolts from teh UCA. DO NOT LOSTEN THE BIG MIDDLE ONE. Take the coil out after taking off to bottom bolt. Unbolt UCA and put in new one and reattach the coil strut assembly. its pretty easy. it may be hard to visualize but jack up the truck and take the tire off and you will see what im talking about. just remember not to take the middle bolt out because that attaches to the topplate to the strut and that will hurt you when the coil extends instantly.
EDIT: just saw you have an 05. this should all still apply but im not a 100% posivtive. there might be a different combination of top bolts but just remember to stay away from teh bolt that attaches to the strut. should still be easy.

[Tweeter]

Originally Posted by tacoma87

Once you lift the truck with a jack the coil will extend to maximum length so it should be all free. unbolt the top three bolts from teh UCA. DO NOT LOSTEN THE BIG MIDDLE ONE. Take the coil out after taking off to bottom bolt. Unbolt UCA and put in new one and reattach the coil strut assembly. its pretty easy. it may be hard to visualize but jack up the truck and take the tire off and you will see what im talking about. just remember not to take the middle bolt out because that attaches to the topplate to the strut and that will hurt you when the coil extends instantly.
EDIT: just saw you have an 05. this should all still apply but im not a 100% posivtive. there might be a different combination of top bolts but just remember to stay away from teh bolt that attaches to the strut. should still be easy.

Just unbolt it? What about the spindle? That's attached you know. You'll have to press out the old balljoint and press in the new one as well as the uniball. Also remember to disconnect your airbag gizmotrons in the engine bay because when you drive out the main bolt holding in the UCA they tend to hit it and you can imagine what could happen. I think parksoffroad.com has a write up this somewhere. It's easy just need a couple special tools for pressing in/out the uniballs such as custom cups for it and huge ass c-clamp and a huge crescent wrench, thats what I used.

[SP Jon M3]

When I installed my UCAs on my '05 I did not need to unbold the COs at all.

1) Lift truck
2) remove wheels
3) place floor jack under outer lower ctrl arm, do not compress the arm at all, just have it there for support.
4) remove ball joint bolt
5) tap ball joint out of spindle, the spindle will fall towards you a few inches
6) bend fender out of the way
7) remove main pivot bolt
8) remove stock arm
9) place new UCA with new bushings use grease and washer/spacers in position on the frame
10) install main pivot bolt, and torque to spec
11) Line uniball with the spindle, you might need to use the jack to push the spinde up in place
12) install bolt through uniball and spinde then thread the nut on the bolt
13) torque to spec.
14) retorque all bolts
15) grease zerk fittings (optional)
16) replace wheel, torque lugs to spec (83lbs I think)
17) repeat on other side
18) drive truck around and hit some speed bumps to settle suspension
19) go get an alignment

* Driver's side requires (make it easier) removal of battery.

You can see some pics of me installing the UCAs here

http://web.mac.com/jbryan/iWeb/My_20...TC%20UCAs.html


NOTE: This is how I did it. I'm can't be held resonsible if you try it this way and damage your truck. Took about 30-45 min/ side.

[SP Jon M3]

Originally Posted by 12Tweeter12

You'll have to press out the old balljoint and press in the new one as well as the uniball.

Originally Posted by 12Tweeter12

I think parksoffroad.com has a write up this somewhere. It's easy just need a couple special tools for pressing in/out the uniballs such as custom cups for it and huge ass c-clamp and a huge crescent wrench, thats what I used.

There is no need for a press on the '05s. The uniball just pops out with a tap of the hammer. And there is no slug to press back in the spindle.

Originally Posted by 12Tweeter12

Also remember to disconnect your airbag gizmotrons in the engine bay because when you drive out the main bolt holding in the UCA they tend to hit it and you can imagine what could happen.

The AB sensors are not in the way of the removal of the main bolt on the '05s.

[egress81]

its a lot easier to do it your self, plus you learn more about your truck

[speedster]

Originally Posted by egress81

its a lot easier to do it your self, plus you learn more about your truck

I agree. I regreased mine the other day and it was much simpler than I thought. Do it yourself and you will save money, learn about your truck and have a sense of accomplishment. Sounds cheesy but it's true.

[joel]

Yeah, mine were easy, but I do have an older pickup. a couple of things to consider. Use high quality polyurethane grease, and torque the main bolt at ride height that way everything is set there rather than at full drupe. This will help with the squeaks.

[Doss]

Originally Posted by SP Jon M3

When I installed my UCAs on my '05 I did not need to unbold the COs at all.

1) Lift truck
2) remove wheels
3) place floor jack under outer lower ctrl arm, do not compress the arm at all, just have it there for support.
4) remove ball joint bolt
5) tap ball joint out of spindle, the spindle will fall towards you a few inches
6) bend fender out of the way
7) remove main pivot bolt
8) remove stock arm
9) place new UCA with new bushings use grease and washer/spacers in position on the frame
10) install main pivot bolt, and torque to spec
11) Line uniball with the spindle, you might need to use the jack to push the spinde up in place
12) install bolt through uniball and spinde then thread the nut on the bolt
13) torque to spec.
14) retorque all bolts
15) grease zerk fittings (optional)
16) replace wheel, torque lugs to spec (83lbs I think)
17) repeat on other side
18) drive truck around and hit some speed bumps to settle suspension
19) go get an alignment

* Driver's side requires (make it easier) removal of battery.

You can see some pics of me installing the UCAs here

http://homepage.mac.com/jbryan/PhotoAlbum15.html
http://homepage.mac.com/jbryan/PhotoAlbum14.html

NOTE: This is how I did it. I'm can't be help resonsible if you try it this way and damage your truck. Took about 30-45 min/ side.

Excellent. Thanks.

I guess I will be doing the install myself. Mine as well I've installed everything else on the truck.

Time to call Demello and get some UCAs

Thanks Everyone for your input.

[SP Jon M3]

Originally Posted by Doss

Excellent. Thanks.

I guess I will be doing the install myself. Mine as well I've installed everything else on the truck.

BTW, I changed the site where I had pics during the UCA insatall. Not really a write-up, but it's just a few snapshots during the install.

http://web.mac.com/jbryan/iWeb/My_20...TC%20UCAs.html

There is one where the stock UCA has been removed and the suspension is just hanging. You inquired about that earlier.

[Doss]

Thanks Jon and everyone else for your input...

Camburg UCAs are on order and I should be able to install them next weekend and then finally get the truck aligned correctly.

[ricomann]

i'll install them for free, along with a check for one hundred million dollars, a 12 pack of beer and a smut magazine.

[Doss]

Well took about two hours but the UCAs have been installed. The truck is currently at the alignment shop. Hopefully they can align it now with the new arms.

Thanks for the write up Jon, I had one question though. What did you do with the brake line that was attached to the stock UCAs with the 10mm bolt?

In your picture it looks like you just have them sitting on top of your new UCAs. I zipped tied mine to the new UCAs but I was wondering if you had a better method.

Thanks,
Josh

[SP Jon M3]

Originally Posted by Doss

In your picture it looks like you just have them sitting on top of your new UCAs. I zipped tied mine to the new UCAs but I was wondering if you had a better method.

I did the same thing, just zip tied em to the UCAs.

So you did the install yourself? Got any pics?

[Doss]

Yeah I ended up installing them myself. I'll throw some pics up tomorrow.

[Doss]

Some pics I took during the install. There are very few I always forget to take pics once I start.

stock


stock unbolted


My SAWs are too damn dirty

[MysticGold04]

Looks good... I'm trying to find the courage to install my set. I have an 04, so its a little different.. there are 2 bolts for the Ball Joint. One on the top, and one that connects to the spindle. Will I be able to accomplish this by getting one of the BJ presses from Harbor Freight? The have a 3 piece and another kit for 4WDs... I have all the tools but the press.

[boylem002]

Originally Posted by MysticGold04

Looks good... I'm trying to find the courage to install my set. I have an 04, so its a little different.. there are 2 bolts for the Ball Joint. One on the top, and one that connects to the spindle. Will I be able to accomplish this by getting one of the BJ presses from Harbor Freight? The have a 3 piece and another kit for 4WDs... I have all the tools but the press.

yep, I have the same press (c-clamp with cups and plates) and it worked just fine on mine. 2 bolts? the only bolt i remember was the top bolt on the control arm. I removed that, then hit the underside with a BFH to separate the control arm from the BJ. You could use a puller for that as well or a fork (you're replacing the BJ with the uniball anyway). Then there was the boot, some cleanup, and the press, but I don't remember any other bolts.

[Doss]

Ok guys,

Less than 3K miles on the new UCAs and I've got creaking going on when I turn the wheel. Not the squeaking that everybody has talks about with the aftermarket UCAs, but creaking like an old door. It doesn't bother me but it is definatly noticable when you turn the wheel.

Josh

[boylem002]

Originally Posted by Doss

Ok guys,

Less than 3K miles on the new UCAs and I've got creaking going on when I turn the wheel. Not the squeaking that everybody has talks about with the aftermarket UCAs, but creaking like an old door. It doesn't bother me but it is definatly noticable when you turn the wheel.

Josh

get used to that. You can have the uniball replaced, but it will still come back as far as I can tell. Mine's done it since around 1k on the arms. Every 6 months I pull the arms off, clean the old grease out, regrease, clean the uniball and slug adapter, grease, then reinstall. You'll notice after washing your truck, assuming you spray the front fenderwell area, that the groaning will go away until the water dries. Chain lube will kill the noise, but will attract and hold dirt. A dry lube of a silicone or teflon-friendly type definitely quiets it a little, but it's still there.

Most of us call this the 'sound of performance'.

[SP Jon M3]

Originally Posted by boylem002

get used to that. You can have the uniball replaced, but it will still come back as far as I can tell. Mine's done it since around 1k on the arms. Every 6 months I pull the arms off, clean the old grease out, regrease, clean the uniball and slug adapter, grease, then reinstall. You'll notice after washing your truck, assuming you spray the front fenderwell area, that the groaning will go away until the water dries. Chain lube will kill the noise, but will attract and hold dirt. A dry lube of a silicone or teflon-friendly type definitely quiets it a little, but it's still there.

Most of us call this the 'sound of performance'.

Yep, what he said.

I use Super Lube and this kills the noise, but I have to clean the uniballs about every month or two. And reapply.